Ravneet kaur Bhatia
ID: 17058364
Research and Enquiry Module 7CTA1079-2018
Sources: Books, journals/articles, reports.
Fast fashion: response to change in the fashion industry
Vertica Bhardwaj & Ann Fairhurst (2010) Fast fashion: response to changes in the fashion industry, The International Review of Retail, Distribution and Consumer Research, 20:1, 165-173, DOI: 10.1080/09593960903498300
https://doi.org/10.1080/09593960903498300
Fashion is considered as to be a temporary cyclical phenomena adopted by consumers for a particular time. Fashion industry is been changing since past 20 years widely. The concept of throwaway fashion or fast fashion has been introduced recently which has changed the dynamics of the fashion industry. Number of seasons has increased, shelf life of the clothes have been reduced and prices of the garments have also been reduced. As compare to the 1980s when fashion retailers used to forecast fashion trends long before their actual time of consumption to compete in the market. Comparatively now fashion retailers compete with others ensuring speed to market by ensuring fashion trends by fashion shows and runways.
‘Here today, gone tomorrow’ this is a strategy of fashion retailers by which they increase the curiosity of the consumers to buy garment before it gets sold out or before its shelf life gets finished. Which also indicates that garment has a short life circle and high profit margin. It has become an evident that the life cycle for fashion is quite small.
In 1999 fashion runways and fashion shows were the biggest inspiration of the fashion industry. Fashion shows and cat walk became a public phenomenon, photographs of recent fashion shows could be seen in the magazines which resulted in awareness among people, fashion conscious consumers were exposed to exclusive designs and style inspired by runway.
Fast fashion brands like Zara, h&m, forever 21, mango are adopting such designs from the runway to attract consumers.
Hence fast fashion concept will continue to affect the fashion apparel industry over decades and decision of throwaway fashion can help retailers in developing affective marketing strategies to perform more effectively in the market
Fashion and textiles an overview
Colin gale & Jasbir Kaur/ fashion and textile an overview/berg publishers(2004)/New York/ ISBN-10- 9781859718184/ ISBN-13-9781859738184
The main focus of this book is about the relationship between fashion and textile industry. Fashion and textile are profoundly linked. The intimate bond between the two fields revealed when changes occurring in one ultimately, if not immediately have some impact on each other. The textile industries collaborate with a whole host of professionals, all experts within their own fields, from fashion to colour and fibres. The fashion designer’s relationship with fabric can be intensely personal. How the both industry compete and influence each other has been professionally explained by Gale and Jasbir Kaur in this book, they analysed the fashion cultural,industrial and social relationships as well.
DRESS AND GENDER MAKING AND MEANING
Ruth Barnes and Joanne B. Eicher/ Dress and Gender making and meaning/Berg publisher(1993)/ New York/ISBN- 978-0-85496-865-7
Dress is a powerful means of communication and statements about the gender role of a newborn child soon after birth. Dress serves as a sign that the individual belongs to a certain group, but simultaneously differentiates the same individual from all others. Dress is an indication of the general social position of the person in the society. It is also a symbol of economic position. In this volume Barnes and Eicher has addressed the relationship between gender and dresses by covering geographical areas and comparing them. They focused on Asia, Europe and Africa to North and South America. Culture identity is also expressed in a particular form of dress is found throughout this volume.
Fashion fabric spring
Vogue/ fashion: fabrics colour spring/ New York/ vol. 91/ issue. 4( Feb. 15, 1996)/ ISSN: 0042-8000
In this article vogue magazine focuses on the latest trends of fabrics and colours and prints of the garment. The main fabric to be focused was crepe fabric. Crepe fabric cab be used like like slipping it into a soft, light luxury of poor lacy wool. It can be used as tailored suit. In 1938 , in one of the spring collection it was used in a coat of spongy wool worn over a dress as a sand. It can be used as a combination of two textures. In this article the main focus is on prints as well. Two and three coloured motif can also be carried in suit. Checks, stripes or dotted crepe blouse gives a Gamine look to the tailored suit. Here they also talk about crepe used in sportswear, as an evening dress, day and evening wear etc.
Turning fashion into business: The emergence of Milan as an International Fashion Hub
Elisabetta Merlo & Francesca Polesa/turning fashion into business: the emergence of Milan as an international fashion hub/ vol 80, issue 3/ published online: December 13,2011
A huge change occurred in the fashion industry after World War 2. As the Parisian monopoly ended it rose the opportunities for various competitors. Cities like London and New York managed to promote themselves as alternatives to Paris on the other hand Italy couldn’t create a single fashion capital. Cities like Florence, Rome and Milan were equally trying hard to create the staging ground for Italian Fashion products but as Milan had better features of its productive structure it eventually became the winner out of all. Milan succeeded as it had long, steady accumulation of resources and its ability to harness its creative and managerial capabilities was better. The Italian fashion industry became popular and got its position in the international market in the second half of the twentieth century. Milan’s emergence as a fashion ‘ superstar’ was in 1970’s.
Fast fashion, sustainability and ethical appeal of luxury brands
Chan,R., & Wang,J.,Venkatesh,A.,Jr.,Sherry F,J.,Joy,A. (2012) Fast fashion, sustainability, and the ethical appeal of luxury brands. Google scholar (online) Available at: https://www3.nd.edu/~jsherry/pdf/2012/FastFashionSustainability.pdf (Accessed on: 5 December,2018)
This article discusses about the disharmony among quick design shoppers who regularly share a worry for natural issues even as they enjoy purchaser designs contradictory to biological accepted procedures. Fast fashion and sustainability are co related. Fast fashion is defined as the low cost clothing collections that mimic current luxury trends even as it embodies unsustainability and it allows dreams of luxury to come true. Sustainability on the other hand is a primary issue but fast fashion is unsustainable. Disposability plays a key role in fast fashion as explained in the article the amount of waste disposed by garments creates a imbalance in the environment. It explains the co relation of fast fashion, sustainability and luxury brands.
Functional clothing- Principal of fit
Boorady M., (2011) Functional fit – Principle of fit. Google scholar (online) Available at: http://nopr.niscair.res.in/bitstream/123456789/13228/1/IJFTR%2036(4)%20344-347.pdf (Accessed on: 20 November,2018)
After reading about fast fashion my focus was on functional clothing, in this paper Lynn M Boorady focuses on the aspects of fit in functional garments. This article explains that the fit of the functional garment is considered as successful when the need of the wearer and required functionality of the garment balances out. Fit of the clothing is the most important aspect it also takes new dimensions while discussing about the functional garments. A garment is considered to be in a good fit when it allows the body to function and do not restrict the wearer’s movements, also it helps the wearer to go about their day confidently. Another requirement for the functional garment besides its fit is to check its ease. In this paper Boorday explains requirement of ease in a functional garment in order to allow a person to perform everyday task. So prime objective of this paper was to focus on the importance of fit and ease while constructing a functional garment.
Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys
Fletcher, K. (2014)/Sustainable fashion and textiles/2nd ed/ Routledge /p.288/ ebook ISBN-9781315857930.
After learning about fast fashion I was curious to know more about sustainability deeply. This book brings together the information about lifecycle sustainability impacts of fashion and textile. it basically defines the key relationships between sustainability and fashion and textile sectors. Talking about the ecological concepts and social innovation, it also challenges the sector to change. The book consists of 8 chapters and is divided into two halves. The first four chapters talk about the key phases of the textile product lifestyle and the remaining four chapters focuses on the sustainability of fashion and textiles at the system level and explores opportunities to influence the root cause of many sustainability problems. Finally the end chapter surveys the participatory design and examines its potential for promoting sustainability. This book depicts that any ideas that helps facilitates change towards sustainability are embraced as design. This book helps us imagine sustainability in a better way.
Management Fashion
Abrahamson,E.,Management Fashion (1996).Google scholor( online) Available at:https://journals.aom.org/doi/abs/10.5465/amr.1996.9602161572 ( Accessed on :20 March 2019)
In this article Abrahamson and Eric have not only talked about management fashion but also about aesthetic fashion. They explained that both of them are different and fashion scholars should not only study but also intervene in the management fashion setting process. As aesthetic fashion appears beautiful and modern, fashion management must appear as rational and progressive.
This article warns that scholars at business school must both study and intervene in the management fashion setting process as mentioned earlier otherwise these business school’s long term viability will be at risk. After reading this article it is believed that a management technique is at the forefront of management progress can be more or less transitory.
Great Fashion designers
Brenda Polan and Roger Tredre/ great fashion designers/ Gabrielle Chanel/ Bloomsbury publishing( 2009)/p. 39-42
Polan & Tredre in their book have discussed about 50 greatest designers of all the time. They focused on their careers and their personal life and interest their shared struggle which made them achieve such success in life. My main focus out of all the designers was on Gabrielle Chanel who ruled the fashion industry from 1883- 1971 passing its legacy to Karl Lagerfeld who is a head creative director of Chanel now. Even after the death of Gabrielle, Chanel continues to be treated with reverence nearly forty years. She started her career with sportswear and men’s clothing and turned them into practical, effortlessly elegant clothes for women. Even after losing her parents and having a bad love life she came to be a very strong personality. She introduced concepts of little black dress, short pleated skirt with dropped waistlines and cloche hats. Black was for mourning clothes only, Chanel made it chic. Being an orphan girl she had no reference, no education , no upbringing, so she was free to invent her own rules of dress. Her status as an outsider may hold the key to her success.
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